In summer the Cinque Terre rank among the most crowded corners of Italy, with thousands of day-trippers squeezing into the narrow lanes. Once the crowds leave, the five Ligurian villages (Riomaggiore, Manarola, Corniglia, Vernazza, Monterosso) settle back into their own pace. And the paths between them, which are the real reason to go, are far more pleasant to walk without the heat and without a queue at your back.
Why autumn
Lonely Planet names spring and autumn as the best seasons for hiking here. Anyone who has tried a summer walk on a Greek island will get it: climbing between terraces is not a July-noon activity. In October and November the temperature works in your favour, the lanes empty and a seat on the train is easier to find.
There is a price, though, and it’s the rain. More on that below, because it’s the most important part of this article.
The trails
The whole area is a national park and a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1997, with around 120km of footpaths. Most visitors stick to the coastal path linking the five villages, the Sentiero Azzurro, but that’s only the start.
- Via dell’Amore (Riomaggiore – Manarola). The most famous stretch and, according to Rick Steves, the easiest. It fully reopened after 12 years closed and a €23 million restoration. A good warm-up, or the right choice if you’d rather skip the climbs.
- Manarola – Corniglia. One of the stretches Rick Steves features in his videos. Corniglia is the only clifftop village and the only spot where you can see all five. Arriving by train, you face 383 steps from the station up to the village.
- Corniglia – Vernazza – Monterosso. The continuation north, with plenty of ups and downs. Rick Steves calls the trails rough but manageable, and the views make it worth it.
- Higher up. From the north side of Manarola a path climbs through the vineyards, looking over terraces that have been farmed for more than a thousand years.
On footwear, think Taygetos rather than a beach stroll: proper hiking shoes, water and a rain jacket in your pack.
The park card
Because this is a national park, you pay an entry fee for the main trails, which, as Rick Steves notes, buys you better-maintained paths. The park issues the Cinque Terre Card for this. Versions, prices and inclusions change from year to year and by season, so check them on the official Parco Nazionale delle Cinque Terre site before you go rather than relying on old forum posts.
Trains: the real connector
The railway reached the Cinque Terre a century before the road, and today trains link all five villages every 15 to 20 minutes. That means you don’t have to walk the route in one go: pick a stretch, ride back, and pick up where you left off the next morning. When the sea is calm, boats also run between the villages.
You don’t need a car. Lonely Planet suggests leaving it in La Spezia and carrying on by train. From Greece, the nearest airports for Liguria are Pisa and Genoa, with Milan as an alternative. Which flight from Athens or Thessaloniki works best depends on your dates. That’s the part we look into for you.
Rain and closed trails
In late autumn heavy rain is not unusual, and sections of the trails close for safety after a downpour. Steep, rocky stretches turn slippery, and on slopes like these the ground can give way.
- Check every morning. The park posts updates on the state of the trail network in the “Sentieri e Outdoor” section of its official site. Look before you set off, not the night before.
- Don’t duck the tape. A closed trail is closed, even if you see others walking through.
- Leave slack in the plan. That’s why we suggest, as Lonely Planet does, three or four days rather than a day trip: if one day is a washout, you still have time.
Where to stay
Stay in one of the villages rather than in La Spezia, so you’re on the trail early, before the day-trippers arrive. Manarola and Riomaggiore suit the southern stretches. Corniglia sits mid-route and has the views, and the steps.
Shall we plan it together?
At Penguin Travels & Tours we can put together your Liguria trip: flights from Athens or Thessaloniki, transfers to the villages, a base close to the trails and a schedule with enough flexibility for the rainy days.
Want to walk the Cinque Terre without the summer crowds? Stop by our office in Kalamata (Vasilissis Olgas 4) or call us at +30 27210 80701.
